Built in 1866, the Old Winter Palace used to be the winter residence of the King and it still retains that opulence. This is the hotel of choice for visiting presidents or their representatives, film stars and others who don't need to check the price before they book in. Howard Carter was a very regular visitor, even though he had his own house on the West Bank.

The hotel is in a grand, imposing building on the Corniche, across the road from the Nile. Go up the sweeping stone staircase into the foyer to enter a magnificent foyer with sweeping staircase. Many people come just to look, but the hotel discourages voyeurs. By and large, you need to be resident or to be coming for a meal to get this far.

The grandeur of the hotel is not in the modern flash vogue, but in the traditional, colonial style. The communal rooms share the flamboyance of the foyer and staircase. The massive Victoria lounge could easily be in Pimlico. Resting in one of exquisite armchairs you would not be surprised if Jeeves offered you a cocktail and a freshly ironed newspaper. The lounge bar, opposite, has old books lining its paneled walls and a live pianist. There is a dress code that prevents unsuitably attired visitors detracting from the ambience in the lounge and the bar as well as the restaurants. No cargo pants or T-shirts here.

The rooms towards the centre at the front are massive and arranged in suites. These are the ones frequently occupied by visiting dignitaries. Many of the other bedrooms and suites appear to have been created by subdividing previously cavernous areas. Consequently they vary in shape, size and layout, giving each a unique character. The rooms at the front overlook the Nile. The ones at the back have a view to fine gardens. The gardens are a major feature of the hotel. They are extensive and include a good pool, poolside dining and tennis courts. These facilities are shared with residents of the adjoining New Winter Palace.

Service is as attentive as you would expect at a hotel of this class. They will even run errands, such as changing cash, but of course the tips are expected to be generous too.

There are two dining rooms, which are reviewed separately here. Additionally, you can use the restaurants in the neighbouring New Winter Palace, although the prices are not greatly different so there is not much point other than for the variety.

One of the 'things to do' in Luxor is to take tea on the balcony at the Old Winter Palace. You have to be smartly dressed to be admitted and there is a cost premium for the privilege. But where else can you sup tea on the balcony of a former palace with uninterrupted views over the Nile to the West Bank?